Trekking begins

                Apart from a set of change of clothes, we had taken pooja items, vastrams, dry fruits, etc to be offered to the Lord.We had also taken some coffee powder, bournvita, milk powder and sugar and some pain killers.Though we had taken enough medicines for fever, cold, pains , etc. along with first aid , by the grace of Lord, we didn’t have to really use anything until we returned to Secunderabad.

                We found there was a path that skirted the riverbed, but we preferred to walk along the riverbed. As we walked along we started to notice the wind was picking up and the clouds were closing in from the mountains on either side of us. 

               We were now in the Lower Mustang belt as per the Map . Mustang is an Anglicization of the Tibetan Lo Manthang, which is an autonomous region in north-central Nepal that borders on Tibet. The destination of our trek today was to reach Mukthinath by evening. En route there is the village of Kagbeni ("Crow Confluence" in Nepali). The rocky highland stretching from Jomsom to Kagbeni--through which the Gandaki flows--is called Lower Mustang. Upper Mustang is where Damodar Kund is located, a lake that is the root source of all Saalagramam silas. We had to drop the ideaof going into Upper Mustang as expensive permits are required from the Nepali authorities . Formerly the GandakiRiverValley was the most important trade route between India and Tibet. It was controlled by the Buddhist kingdom of Lo Manthang, which was of Tibetan culture. But more than 200 years ago the Buddhist Raja of Lo Manthang allied with the Hindu Raja of Kathmandu in a war against Tibet. This is why the present region of Mustang (Lo Manthang), which is populated mostly by Buddhist people with Mongolian features, is part of Nepal and not Tibet (now fully controlled by Communist China). Now the trekking trail takes us away from the bank of the Gandaki for a while. I along with my wife started chantingShri Vishnu sahasranaamam , while my eyes were immersed in the beauty of Lords own little world far away from material and karmic vasanas. .Few foreigners along with their guide walk briskly before us cheering NAMASTE … I feel their enthusiasm in trekking the mountains and truly with the protective wind shields, woolen socks, rock boots and body packs they were perfect mountaineers,I avoided the trekking kit to tax my body in reaching Lords abode with a sincere vow as I did for Ahobilam and Tirumala.

                Muktinath is situated at a height of 3,800 metres whereas jomsom is at 2713 metres.The distance to Muktinath from Jomsom by walk is 21 kms (via Kagbeni) whereas now there is another short-cut which involvesclimbing of a steep mountain but would save about 3-4 kms.To reach Muktinath, we need to cross 3 settlements- Eklabhatti, Khinga, Jharkot (Earlier, piligrims used to go toMuktinath via Eklabhatti, Kagbeni, Jharkot).One can find maps displayed on boards with the name of settlement, no. of hotels,lodges , distance to the next settlement and approximate time-only in these places, one can get drinks/ food etc) I could see my children moving away from usquickly . I wonder whether we can make it today . Enroute we see the skull of a yak. This classic symbol of desolation accentuates the atmosphere of loneliness that hangs over theGandakiRiverValley. Between Jomsom and Kagbeni one sees evidence of human habitation only rarely. We could see anisolated stone hut of a herdsman. Nobody was home when we passed it . Ametal suspension bridgeen route spans the GandakiRiverValley.What adds a cultural mystique to the mountain paths and the flat areas of the Kali Gandaki are the teams of yaks and mules that would traverse the steep slopes carrying supplies back and forth from each area. The owner would be behind a team of 6 or more animals that methodically climb and descend (they could probably have done it blindfolded), stepping out of the way of persons who would approach from the opposite way. Each would wear an enchanting bell (like one of those wind chimes) which would create a sattvic atmosphere, especially needed when you round a sharp corner on a narrow path .So the bells do provide tranquility and safe travels. Incredibly strong winds often blow through the valley, and if you are crossing this bridge when such a wind comes up, you truly fear you'll be blown off into the valley below . My wife pauses for rest on the east end of the bridge. Where I quickly takefew pictures and shoot from my camcorder . As we continued our trek, we moved away from Kali Gandaki river,we could view her only from a distance.Initially, the way was broad enough but it was a stony path.Though one doesn’t feel thirsty due to the chillness , it is advisable to carry a bottle ofwater, some glucose, few apples etc on the way Someforeign tourists werecycling on the steep mountains.  <>

                Leaving Kali Gandaki and climb up to Muktinath is a highlight.As one ascends , we reach plateau after plateau where we tend to think that we have reached the summit, but it just keeps on going.We walked across many plateaus and each time , we used to feel that we have reached the destination.

                    Surrounded by Annapurna mountains on one side and Dhaulagiri mountains on the other sides, a pleasant chilly breeze and Kali Gandaki flowing below, the picturesque beauty was feast to the body mind and soul.Visualizing the Viraata Purusha in our mind’s eyemoving upwards, the path was narrowing and in some places, we came to the edge of the cliff. We had to slowly walk forward by holding hands. This was becoming more adventurous.Crossingmany mountains on the way and the connecting path isusually narrow.It took about 2 hours for us to reach the first settlement EKLABHATTI.At this point we are thankfully within sight of the town of Kagbeni. The trek through the valley involves is mostly flat and level. But the valley itself is some 2000 meters above sea level! Thus catching your breath is a problem, since there is less oxygen in the air than normal. As we descend from the bridge to the valley floor we meet a herd of incredibly nimble mountain goats. At the upper edgey wecan see Ekla Bhatti, the southern "suburb" of Kagbeni. Behind , the holy Gandaki flows on her way from Kagbeni, visible in the distance As the sun shinesover the Himalayan horizon, we see the blackish waters of the Gandaki from a higher altitude. I finally locate the sign board of Eklabatti where my children and the horseman are awaiting. 

Beyond Eklabatti:

Chanting loudly Lords names Weclimb the steep slippery mountain for about half an hour .The pony rider advised us not to look up or look down as it would instill fear in us we trek like sheep.There is a very narrow path where one can put only one foot carefully .Children were frightened to sit on the pony but having come half the way, they had no other choice but to keep their eyes tightly closed and pray to Lord.We were passing thru a deserted place where there was no vegetation but only few mountain shrubs. We were literally gasping for breath.Added to this, wind started blowing and it was becoming even more difficult to trek.After climbing the steep mountain, we kept on walking on the narrow way for nearly an hour .Suddenly the weather changed and it started drizzling.We were unable to put a step further because it was slippery and the rains would make the road worse.Added to that, there was no one in sight to help us in any adverse condition. Once again, our prayers to Lord did not go in vain. It stopped drizzling and there was only cool soft breeze. After 2 hoursof continuous trekkingwe finally reached Khinga.It was 4 PM in the evening.The milk powder, sugar, coffee and Bournvita which we had taken with uscame very handy.We did not carry flask as hot water is available at the settlements.We can also get some fast foods like noodles etc. though they are definitely costly but is worth it as we don’t have to carry unnecessary luggage.The pony rider asked us to walk fast as it was getting dark but as we are not used to walking and as we wanted to enjoy the nature, we did not do so.

                The trek from Khinga was not very difficult. In and around Khinga, we came across rich vegetation, and the dwellers in these places, polite by nature,were seen knitting mufflers and other woolen products.Apples were available in plenty , though a bit costly compared to Jomsom, we could get them for Rs.10/- per kg.On the way, we had to cross few mountain streams while trekking which was refreshing.It was becoming dark at 5 itself and by 6 P.M., we could not see anything. We could hear wild dogs barking and as we exhausted  and were not prepared to face any adverse situation, we decided to stay overnight in the nearest settlement.The inn-keeper charged Rs.300/- INR for 4 beds.After finishing our supper(one roti costs 70 NR), we retired for the night.The inn keeper cooked food without onions and garlic. Hot water was provided for everything by the homely inn keeper.It was very very cold. Although short of breath, and having to stop every few hundred feet and rest, and although it took me 6 hours to get up there, I made it. Practically it was a miracle. Although I am sore tonight, I am not at all sorry that I went there and I'd gladly go again in the future

Khinga to Jarkot

                            En routewe happened to see helipads.Helicopters from Pokhara/Jomsom upto Muktinathand back fly daily. Duringpeak season, the copter flies many times . Also, We were told that the weather conditions do not affect the copters much.We happened to meet few Tamilians from South India who had come in package tours organized by travel agents in Chennai . It takes about 40 minutes to reach Muktinath from Pokara andhalf an hour’s stay at Muktinath.The package would cost 21000 INR . They however miss the thrill of trekking the holiest mountains.This is safe for physically unfit and aged people.On the way to the temple, on the left side, there is a Buddhist heritage where people offer prayers.After AfewBuddhist prayer wheels at the entrance to the Muktinath complex is visibleThese revolving cylinders are a common sight in Nepal. They are inscribed with the Tibetan Buddhist mahamantra Om Mani Padme Hum--"Aum! The jewel in the lotus! Hail!" The jewel is the pure spirit soul and the lotus is the purified body of the true follower of Buddha's way. Tibetan Buddhist turn these prayer wheels to earn merit. Simply pushing on them to get them revolving is supposed to be as good as chanting the mantra as many times as the wheel then revolves.

Reaching Mukthinath our final destination of this trip

29th Sep 06        Left Secunderabad to Gorakhpur by Secunderabad-Gorakhpur Express at 0800 hours
30th Sep 06        Reached Gorakhpur at 20.00 hours and took rest. Train dealyed
1st Oct 06           0900 hours left for Pokra via Lumbini (birth place of Buddha)
2nd Oct 06          In Pokra Local site seeing.
7th Oct 06           Pokra to Jomsom Left at 1100 hours and reached Jomsom at 1140 hours.

                            Trekking commeced at 1200 hours

                            Reached Ekalbhatti after two hours of trekking.

                            Around 6 PM reached Khinga. Stayed in a settlement for the night. (Originally supporsed to reach Jarkot)

8th Oct 06            0530 hours left for Jarkot reached at 6.30 AM

                              One hour further walk to Muktinath. Reached temple by 0900 hours

                               Left around 1100 hours trekking back to Jomsom. Reached Jomsom around 1900 hours

9th Oct 06            Left Jomsom to Pokra by helicoptor (flight got cancelled) 1600 hours to 1700 hours

                              Left for Janakapur from Pokra in the evening itself. Night stay in a hut enroute

10th Oct 06            Reached Janakpur 0800 hours. Left the temple by 0930 hours. Reached border at 1700 hours and Gorakhpur by 2300 hours.

11th Oct 06            Train to Secunderabad at 0600 hours.
12th Oct 06            Reached Secunderabad by 1830 hours.

In addition to this, since we had three days free from 2nd Oct due to non availability of flight tickets to Jomsom we had been to these places for children's educational purposes but not part of mukthinath pilgrimmage.

<>3rd Oct 06            Pokra to Chitwan
4th Oct 06             Chitwan to Katmandu.
5th Oct 06            Local sight seeing in Katmandu
6th Oct 06            Katmandu- Bhakapur (Patan)- Pokra

Gorakhpur:         Hotel Standard (rate Rs 350/)
Pokra:                Hotel Blue Heaven on 2nd Oct.
Chitwan:             Resort in the Jungle.
Katmandu:          Hotel Taj
Pokra:                Hotel Degchee (punjabi owner) on 6th Oct.
Jomsom:            ? (rate 350/)
Jharkot:            Hotel Mukthinath( planned but could not reach in time after our trekking. Stayed in a settlement at Khinga)
On the way to Janakpur: In a Hut ?

Road travel by BOLERO for Gorakhpur to Pokra, Pokra to Katmandu, Pokra to Janakpur and finally to Gorakhpur.

Pokra to Jomsom: By Air. Gorkha Airlines while going and returned by Helicoptor since the flight was cancelled.

Jomsom to Mukthinath: Pony ride for children and trekking for me and my wife.

<>Adiyen suggests people who undertake this yaatrai to ensure the following:

• Please book air tickets well in advance thru credit card via internet and insist for a fax copy.
• Only Gorkha Airlines provide services for Pokara-Jomsom-Pokhara sector for onward and return journey and they have only one propeller flight which makes 5-6 trips to and fro depending upon the weather conditions.
• Please ensure to book your tickets for the first flight/second flight as after 11 A.M., there will not be any service due to strong winds in Jomsom.
• Please do not rely on travel agents for the flight tickets
• Avoid your journey during Dussera as almost all the offices are closed for atleast a week. April-May, July-October are the ideal months for undertaking this yaatrai. Last week of May and June are rainy season and it is not advisable to undertake yaatrai during this period. Mid- October to Feb is very cold.
• Last , but not the least, ONLY IMPLICIT FAITH IN THE LORD WILL MAKE THE TRIP SUCCESSFUL AGAINST ALL ODDS.
• Always schedule your trip in such a way that you have atleast 3 extra days as flight cancellation is very common.
• Temperature in Mukthinath was around 3 deg C. Yes it is very COLD. Ensure that you travel with proper winter clothing, trekking boots, medicines,milk powder, coffee powder,water Glucose, fruits etc.

Adiyen wishes to share sthalapuranam and some interesting facts about this divya desam which may be helpful for future pilgrims.
Muktinath is situated in Upper Mustang area which is a protected zone and hence permit is required from the government. WE had read in some book that this divya desam is in the midst of forest in an isolated place with no facility but it looks like it is developing now.One need not worry about this as you find travelers now and then, there are sign boards and some hotels/lodges at settlements enroute.One can hire a pony so that the baggages can be tied to it and the pony incharge will himself act as guide. Chant the holy names while trekking and GOD will take care of everything.I was enthusiastic in revealing the legendary stories about this punya stala to my kids who are distinguishedas they also joined in the 106 Divya desam yathirai effortlessly.  <>  <>

Gandakyamcha uttare teere
Girirajasya dakshine
Dasayojana vistheernaam
Mahakshetra Vasundharaa 

Saalagramamo Mahadevo
devi Dwaravati bhaved
Ubhayossangamo yatra
Muktisttattra na samsaya." 

"To the north of the river, Gandaki (also called Narayani), and south of the Himalayas, there is the holy region of Saalagramama, which is ten yojanas extent, where Dwaravati merges into Saalagramama. Undoubtedly such a place is capable of vouchsafing Moksha." Actually, about 140 miles from Khatmandu is situated Muktimati or Muktikshetra, also called "Saalagramama-kshetra

Legend has it that once Bramha was exasperated at the rate of increase of the sinners among his creation. Then drops of sweat rolled down his cheeks (Ganda), ultimately collecting themselves into the form of a female child called "Gandaki." She took it into her head to do a severe penance which became so overwhelming that the Devas started trembling before her. As usual they offered her the bait of a boon on return for her stopping her penance, but they met a Tartar in her, for she wanted to mother all the Devas. Not having the power to grant such a boon, the Devas pleaded their inability, at which Gandaki became furious and cursed all the devas to be born as worms on the earth below. The Devas in their turn placed a countercurse on her head that she should become "Jada" or inert matter.
Naturally Bramha was concerned with this unexpected development. Unable to find a way out, he consulted Indra and Rudra. With them also he drew a blank. Finally, all the three turned to Vishnu, who said: "Inasmuch as the curses have been already pronounced, they cannot be revoked, and both parties affected must suffer them. The problem is how to make them work to their mutual and ultimately universal benefit."

After consideration, Vishnu said: " I shall take up my abode in the Chakra Teertha near Saalagramamakshetra. You, Devas, shall migrate to this hallowed region as "Vajrakitas" eating into the pebbles. Gandaki shall in the form of a river fill the universe enveloping the shilas hallowed by me." Saalagramama stones are obtained only from the river Gandaki, which is a Himalayan stream, celebrated since antiquity as Narayani, Saligrami, Hiranvati and Hiranyavati. The epic Mahabharata speaks of its sanctity (Bhishma-parva) . The puranas also describe it as a sacred stream in which all the gods and titans abide . By merely looking at it, one would eliminate all his mental defilement’s, by touching it his bodily sins are burnt up, and by sipping its water the verbal demerits are thrown out: One who comes into contact with this sacred stream will be liberated from the cycle of birth and deaths, even if he be a sinner. And for the reason, the river Gandaki became among all the rivers extraordinarily sacred Being a mystic river, looking at it, touching it, bathing in it and sipping its waters will be conductive to eliminate all sins, even the greatest of sins pertaining to the body, speech and mind.

I told them thereare many aspects of this pilgrimage right fromgoing to the Holy Tirtha of Saalagramam high in the Himalayas; the challenge of one's faith, to be there and to find one's worshipful Lord; the material elements, and other various hardships - walking many miles/kilometres, high altitude, no food, the weather, the constant wind, wild animals, dacoits and theives, mundane trekkers, so many things.We were trekking near the banks of Gandaki river. Whichrises beyond the Himalayan ranges, probably in Tibet, and flows (in the north-south direction) into Nepal, There is a lake at the source of the Kali-Gandaki , called Damodar-kunda on theNepal . The lower Gandaki is well known as Mukti-natha-kshetra, also called Saligrama-kshetra. The sacred stones are largely found on the banks of Kali-gandaki near Tukche, between the two mountains Dhavala-giri and Annapurana. Damodara-Kunda isconsidered asSaivite place of pilgrimage by Nepalis. This is the punya kshetram where saligrama-stones are found within the Nepal territory. As advised by my father the children learnt the slokaby heartsupposed to be chanted while we trek the route .The slokagoes like this with meaning explained below 

dheya sada savitra mandala madhya-varti---  naryanah sarasijasana sannivistah
    keyuravan makara kundalavan kiriti--hari hiranmaya vapuh dhrita sankha cakrah 

     Narayana is the Supreme Personality of Godhead to be meditated upon in the center of the sun globe. He is situated on a lotus flower and seated in the lotus posture. He is adorned with beautiful golden bracelets, amulets, earrings, necklace and a crown. He has the golden effulgence and is seen holding the pure white conch and Sudarshana cakra in His lotus hands. Oh wielder of the conch, disc, club, and other natural weapons, You are the Lord and resident of the spiritual realm. Oh indestructible one, protector of the worlds, oh lotus eyed Lord, please save all of us who have taken shelter of you and appear before us .

INTERESTING FACTS ABOUT THIS DIVYA DESAM:

• Muktinath in Nepal is an important pilgrimage site for Vaishnavites and Buddhists. 
• It is one of the eight swayam vyakta kshetrams-out of this 4 are in southern India and 4 in Northern India.
• in Northern India, Perumal has manifested Himself in the form of forest at Naimisaranyam, as water in Pushkar, as mountain in Badri and as Fossils in Saalagramam whereas in rest of India, Perumal is in Archa form (Tirumala, Srirangam) ,
• The best season to visit is during March-April and during September to 1s week of October
• May to August is rainy season and is not advisable to go
• As a visit to this place bestows liberation, this kshetram is known as Mukthi kshetram and Perumal as MUKTHI NARAYANAN.
• The sthala mahatyam is mentioned in Skanda Purana, Varaha Purana, Padma Purana and Mahabharata. 
• As per Padma Puranam, a Brahmana who has undergone Pancha samskaram and has bath in Holy Gandaki and have Muktinarayanan’s darshanam, will be bestowed with liberation.

·In Varaha Purana, Lord Vishnu Himself explains to Bhoodevi about the importance of this kshetram and the various theerthams in Someswar, Harihar and Mukthinath kandas.

• This place is surrounded by two rivers- the Matsyangadi in the East and the Kali Gandaki in the West. 
• Kali Gandaki is famous for the shaligrama shilas as well as the world’s deepest gorge. 
• Due to intense meditation, Lord Vishnu started sweating from behind His ears. This transformed into river and as it originated from Gandam (behind ear), she is known as Gandaki” river. 

·The river Gandaki is a very ancient river; and the geologists say that it existed even before the formation of the Himalayan ranges. It rises beyond the Himalayan ranges, probably in Tibet, and flows (in the north-south direction) into Nepal. And for the reason, the river Gandaki became among all the rivers extraordinarily sacred Being a mystic river, looking at it, touching it, bathing in it and sipping its waters will be conductive to eliminate all sins, even the greatest of sins pertaining to the body, speech and mind. My soul danced with joy looking at the nature and being in Gods own world.

·Varaha Purana mentions that Perumal conceded to Gandaki’s request to be born as her son and hence Perumal manifested Himself as salagrams in water.Due to the Perumal’s presence, this has become the most sanctifying river and a dip in this frees one from all sins committed by thought, word and action in innumerable lifetimes, forefathers shall reach heaven and finally attain moksham.

·Near to this place is Someshwar , a mountain which is the abode of Shiva where he has manifested himself as lingams 

·The vast tract of land through which the sacred Gandaki flows is known as Saalagramama kshetra. As this area was full of “sala” trees, it is known thus.

·Lord Vishnu with all the demigods is present in the form of Saalagramams .These Saalagramams are worshipped in all the major temples across the globe.

·Tulasi, wife of the demon Sankhachoodan cursed Lord Vishnu to become a stone as the Lord as part of His divya leela , deceived her.Hence, Lord has taken this form as this is an easier form of worship.The bones of Sankachoodan who was killed by Lord Shiva turned into conches and Tulasi transformed herself into Gandaki river.The tresses of Tulasi turned into Tulasi bushes.As per Tulasi’s request, Lord conceded to remain as stone on the banks of Gandaki river.

·Lord summoned the divine architect, Viswakarma to make different images of Him indicating Lords’ various manifestations and accordingly, Viswakarma transformed himself into vajrakreeta worm and made various signs inside the Saalagramamam stone with its sharp nails.

·The origin of these saligramams are at Damodar kund which is another 3 days trek from Muktinath and special trekking permit is required from Nepalese government as it is at a higher altitude.These stones mingle with the Gandaki river which has its origin beyond Damodar Kund and gets deposited along the river side. Damodar kund is the place where Nalakuvera and Manigriva , the sons of Kubera who were redeemed from their curse by Lord Krishna as Damodara had bath as per Lords’ instructions and attained effulgent bodies. Hence, this kund is known as DAMODAR KUND.Just by visiting and bathing in this , on attains the ability to achieve all his desired objectives and become a detached person even if he is a householder and will not be troubled by pleasure or pain.

·Any fossil stone found on the banks of Gandaki river is deemed to be saligramam especially the ones with marks of discus are manifestations of the Supreme Lord, Sriman Narayanan.

·As a householder may find it difficult to offer prayers by doing homa etc. daily as in earlier yugas, Perumal has manifested Himself in this form which does not require any purificatory rite.The aaradhanai can be started directly and is very simple. Aaradhanai to Saalagramamis to be done with tulasi leaves placed on conch and water to be poured on the saalagramam through the nose of the conch.

·Any act at this place fetches manifold benefits on the doer 

·A 2 minute walk from the temple leads to Jwalamukhi, the place where Brahma did penance for universal welfare and he invoked Lord Vishnu in the form of water and Shiva in the form of fire and offered sacrificial butter and payasam.All the demigods personally attended the sacrifice and accepted the offerings. The remnants of this yagnam which is in the form of soil near by is partaken by devotees as prasadam.

·Brahma performed 3 types of yagas at this place-DRavya yagna (sacrifice with materials), gnana yagna (mental sacrifice-in the sacrificial fire of minds with the sacrified spatula of breath he meditated on the Supreme Lord Narayana and burnt the material contamination in the form of offerings.), upsasana yagna.

·Any living being which dies in this place attains moksham.

·AT a particular place between the temple and Jwalamukhi, one can hear the sound of Ganges flowing into the Patalalok.

·In Varaha Purana, Lord Varaha mentions about the importance of various theerthas and the results of having bath in those many of which are in different locations on the mountain.He also mentions about Someswhar, the abode of Lord Shiva and the benefits of worshipping Him. 

·Many devotees and rishis like Ambarisha, Pundareeka etc have attained liberation after visiting this place.
·As per Mahabaarata, King Bharath after renouncing his kingdom reached this kshetram and performed austerities .this place is known as Galeshwar and there is a temple dedicated to Harihar Galeswarnath.Shiva is present in the form of Sadguru Yogeshwar and Vishnu as Lord Jadeshwar.

Saalagramam and its importance:

ØSaalagramams are small fossils beautifully carved by Vajrakreetam (an insect) and are available in and on the banks of River Kali Gandaki in Nepal.

ØThese are considered divine manifestations of Perumal and hence they don’t need any special consecration rituals to be performed. 

ØThere is no dosham to Saalagramams and even it is broken due to accident or naturally, the divinity is said to exist.

ØThe water which was used for performing abhishekam to saalagramam bestows liberation to the person who drinks it knowingly or unknowingly.This practice is followed even today in all Vaishnava house when a soul departs from a body. 

ØSaaligrama aaradhanai is always to be done with conch and tulasi.

ØIn theSkanda Purana, Skanda classifies the types of Saalagramam to Sage Agastya :-

·LORD VARAHA:- two proportionate marks of discusses on the face of Saalagramam

·LROD VASUDEVA:- white in colour, very attractive, 2 proportionate marks of discus

·LORD PRADHYUMNA:- long, yellowish, with small marks of discus and with many faces (surfaces)

·LORD ANIRUDDHA:- dark saalgiram with marks of three lines and a lotus

·      LORD NARAYANA:- dark with features of Anirddha and has a protruding navel with marks of discus.

·LORD MATSYA:- saligramam with a depressed top and a bulge on both the sides

·LORD KURMA:- very bright three faced Saalagramam with signs of either conches or discus 

·LORD NARASIMHA:- very bright brown coloured Saalagramam with signs of three lines and two different discus- only brahmachary should worship this.

·LORD LAKSHMI NARASIMHA:- salagra with signs of two discusses to the left and hallow –this bestows both material pleasures and liberation.

·LORD VAMANA:- meronish coloured Saalagramam in the shape of a globe with 5 lines 

·LORD BALARAMA:-a conch shaped, yellowish tinged Saalagramam with the marks of plough.

·LORD RAMA:- a conch shaped, yellowish tinged Saalagramam with the marks of bow

·LORD PARASURAMA:- a conch shaped, yellowish tinged Saalagramam with the marks of axe

·LORD SUDARSHANA:- reddish flower like Saalagramama with a blackish discus

·LORD DAMODARA”- big Saalagramam with sudarshana features and with signs of mace and discus to the left, a line on the right and narrowish in the middle with signs of discus.

·LORD PARAMESTI:- Saalagramam with signs of white lotus and discus

·LORD SRIDHARA:- yellowish black bud shaped Saalagramam with signs of two big discus on the back, five lines in the form of a mace and vanamala

·LORD TRIVIKRAMA:- bright dark coloured Saalagramam with signs of kadamba flower going from bottom to top on both sides

·LORD HAYAGRIVA:- green tinged Saalagramam with manyhallows and signs of hook shaped discus and a line of knowledge

·LORD GADADHARA:- saligram with 3 lines and any three signs 

·LORD ANANTA:- saligram with many faces and signs of many bows clubbed together in the form of a serpent
·LORDKRISHNA:- dark coloured Saalagramam with the sign of a vanamala to its right-this grants health, pleasures, and fulfills all sorts of desires

SRI SRIDEVI NAYIKA SAMETHA SRI SRIMOORTHY PARABRAHMANE NAMAH:
 

MOOLAVAR	SRI MOORTHI IN VEETRUIRUNDHA THIRUKOLAM FACING NORTH also known as MUKTHI NARAYANAN
THAYAR	SRIDEVI,BHOODEVI IN NINDRA THIRUKOLAM
VIMANAM	KANAKA
THEERTHAM	GANDAKIRIVER, CHAKRA THEERTHAM
PRATHYAKSHAM	BRAHMA, SIVA, GANDAKI, GARUDA, VINAYAGAR
MANGALASAASANAM	THIRUMANGAI AZHWAR- 10 PASURAMS-988 to 997, PERIAZWAR- 2 PASURAMS(206, 399)
OTHER VIGRAHAMS	GARUDA, BUDDHA, VINAYAGAR

In Peria Thirumozhi, Thirumangai Azhwar has dedicated 10 songs to this divya desam.In the pasurams, Azhwar advises his mind to go to Saalgramam and pray to Perumal who 

as Sri Ramar, humiliated Soorpanaka and killed Ravana thus emerging victorious in the battle, 

as Sri Krishnar who killed Putanai, ate butter, 

as Vamanan who approached Bali Chakravarthy and by asking for 3 feet land measured the 7 universes,, 

as Sri Narasimhar who pierced Hiranya kasapu’s heart, 

as the Lord whose expansions are the Sun, Moon, Ether, Mountains, Oceans, fire and who is the Preserver of the Universe, 

as the Lord who redeemed Shiva from his curse who was roaming with kapalam in his hand due to brahma hathi dosham committed by him.

He adds that Perumal who is residing at Thiruooragam(in Kanchipuram), as Perumal who is in half-reclining posture at Thirukudanthai (Kumbakonam), as Adi Ranganathar residing on the banks of Kaveri at Thiruppernagar (near Thiruchy),the Lord with innumerable myriad names (sahasra naamam) is in Saalagramam.He says that all the demigods, vaishanavas, brahmanas rishis offer prayers to this Lord who is residing in the mountainwhich is decorated with varieties of flowers where the honey bees sing sweetly after sucking the honey from the flowers, where the lakes are filled with lotus and fish who happily jump about.In the set of 10 pasurams, Azhwar advises his mind to go to Saalagramam and offer obeisance to the Supreme Personality of Godhead, Sriman Narayanan.He further advises to either continuously recite the innumerable names of the Lord or recite the 10 pasurams on this Perumal.

Periazhwarhas composed 2 pasurams on this divya desam .In pasuram 206, he narrates that Krishna who stole butter from the gopikas’ house is residing at Saalagramam.In pasuram 399, while composing hymn on Perumal at Kandum Ennum Kadinagar (Thirupiridi divya desam popularly known as Jyotir Mutt enroute to Badrinath), he recollects Perumal at Sri Vaikuntam, Saalagramam,Dwaraka,Ayodhya, Mathura and Badrinath and says that He is the same Lord who is residing at Thirupiridhi.
Divya Kavi Pillai Iyengar who has composed hymns on all the divya desams known as 108 Tirupati Andhadhi mentions that it is futile to be associated with a hoary lineage/family name/ varna/ name instead of being associated with Saalagrama Perumal’s name. He advises to shed ones ego and advises usto identify ourself as the most humble servant of the Lord.

In Nut shell 

LOCATION:

Saalagramam, one of the vada naadu divya desams is the only one which is situated outside India in Nepal.This divya desam is located in the Annapurna ranges of the Himalayas. Saalagramam is at a higher altitude about 2200 feet more compared to Badrinath which is at 10, 200 feet .

HOW TO APPROACH:-

1.BY AIR:-from Delhi/Varanasi/Kolkatta to Katmandu and from there to Muktinath via Pokhara and Jomsom

2.BY ROAD:- reach Gorakpur (Uttar Pradesh) directly or from Varanasi/Lucknow take bus/cab to Gorakhpur (3 hrs journey)- from there to Sunouli, the last Indian village on the Indian border, cross the border, go to Pokhara via Bhairawa

3.BY ROAD: from Patna (in Bihar) to Raxaul (the last Indian village ) to Pokhara from Bhirgunj

4.BY ROAD:- from Darjeeling/ Siliguri (assam) to Pokhara via Kakarbhitta
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Usually, pilgrims prefer to go via Gorakhpur as it is not advisable to travel via Bihar .  <>

We can find both government owned and private buses stationed at Nepal border bound for Katmandu and Pokhara –the most sought after destinations. The fares range from 300NR to 400 NR depending upon the distance.It takes about 6-8 hours from Sunouli to Katmandu; 8 hours from Katmandu to Pokhara.<>
There are also few buses which ply inside the country but the buses are usually overcrowded .Passengers sitting on top of the bus is a very common sight .Hence it is not advisable to travel in fully packed buses as we have to pass thru ghat roads being a hilly region.  <>

It is advisable to take a taxi to go to Nepal if you are going by road. One can negotiate with the travel agents and can choose the places to visit according to our convenience but be prepared tobargain.Many travel agents provide services for sightseeing in Nepal at Gorakhpur itself.They have a range of vehicles-cars, jeeps, buses etcfor us to choose from depending upon the number of pilgrims.<>

If one wishes to cover other interesting places in Nepal apart from visiting Saalagramam, it is advisable to engage a vehicle at Gorakhpur itself.Some of the places of interest are

ØLUMBINI:- the birthplace of Buddha; monastries, holy pond etc.

ØKatmandu,( the capital of Nepal)- Pashupathinath temple dedicated to Shiva,. ,Buddhanilakanta temple (Maha Vishnu), Harey Krishna (ISKCON),Buddhist stupas in Katmandu, Bhaktapur (Pataan), Lord Krishna temple and Durbar Square in Bhaktapur

ØPOKHARA:- Gupteswar cave, Devi’s falls, Phewa Lake, Macchapure mountain, Manokaamna temple dedicated to Goddess (between Katmandu and Pokhara)

ØCHITWAN:- by pass road from Manokaamna temple – jungle for rare species of wild animals (this is near Bihar border)

ØJOMSOM:- base for Muktinath

Since Shiva is the ruling deity of Nepal, there is a belief that pilgrims must visit Pashupathinath temple in Katmandu before proceeding to Muktinath .Similar belief in Badri too.One has to first go to Kedarnath or atleast offer worship to Kedareshwar before entering the main temple in Badrinath.
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Adiyen would like to share with the readers that though I planned to visit Muktinath first and then visit Katmandu, I was forced to come back to Katmandu from Pokhara ,visit Pashupathinath temple and then visit Muktinath.  <>

Normal food expense at Katmandu and Pokhara would be app. 100/- per day (square meal consisting of rotis,rice, tea, tiffin) , we can get rice at Jomsom too (but costly) but way up , we can only get rotis )As you go higher, the food bill increases and it may cost 300/- per person approximately. Due to globalization and as India exports all its food products to Nepal, we can get the same brands and don’t have to carry anything. Infact, but for the mountains, we feel that we are very much in India.